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In some ways this is a rather personal section. I want to be able to remember the most important things I have learned when training Rooskie. And I want to be quite sure that I shall not lose these notes. So that is why I have put a summary of Rooskie's most important training notes on this web site.
When handing in music CD at music desk. Sellotape to CD case a note for the DJ explaining that Rooskie does not start from a pose as he needs a moving start. Explain that once I have him settled I shall raise my arm as a signal that we are ready for the music to start.
Outside ring.
Practise the Paws command and lowering him to the floor and giving the Watch command. Start bridging. Concentrate on getting his attention and then get him to Round or Turn.
Also practise Backing through legs. Feed from Pocket.
Note. While waiting to go into the ring do not let him just sniff but try to keep his attention.
While waiting to go into the ring do not let him just sniff but try to keep his attention. Keep giving Paws command and petting and praising him. Keep calling him and giving him things to do and praising him.
Remember Kayce and Praise.
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The Start of the actual Routine
Note. Sash can also be a hat or scarf –– anything long and soft which he can put his paws on. (He is not happy holding something hard like a stick).
Note. Danger points for running off. When he is brought round to Heel position. When he is circling me. When doing leg weaving.
To minimize this danger. Give him more to do in front position. Just backing between legs is not enough. He needs a number of exercises to keep his attention. Only when he is really paying attention then move on to Heelwork.
Take him into ring on lead. Then take off sash. Give the Paws command in the usual way and get him to stand on his hind legs and put his paws on my knees. Pat him and signal to DJ. Then hold sash against myself and get Rooskie to transfer his paws to the sash. Make sure he has a firm grip and then turn round in a circle with Rooskie turning with me while still keeping his paws on the sash. Then lower him to the ground. Get him to do a Bend and try to get him to hold that position.
But it does not matter if he does not do the Bend. It is more important that he should be sniffing fingers. Then from the Bend get him to circle sash. Bend down low to his level and use fingers to get him to circle hat.
Then stand up and ask him to Spin. Then make him Sit and ask for a Paw. Repeat.
Then from the Sit position ask him to back through my legs.
Consider too doing a versing sequence here. Get him to do a number of verses just round one leg. And then perhaps some backing through my legs.
Hopefully I should now have his attention and can send him round to Heel. Keep Bridging.
Remember Contact and Fingers are vital.
Important Note. Do not go on to progressing round ring unless have his Full attention.
And then try a Round before going onto Heelwork. And if he begins to get too far forward then turn and walk backwards and give the Come or even the Paws command.
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Rooskie on his hind legs with his paws on the sash and moving round in a circle looks good but it can be a danger point. When I lower him to the ground that is when I can lose contact and he can run off. So do not do Paws on sash until he is really settled.
It would make a good ending. And after the circle drop the sash and get him to go down on it and then walk round him in a circle until music ends. Paws on Sash and moving round in a circle for an ending, not a start.
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Note. Sash can also be a hat or scarf –– anything long and soft which he can put his paws on. (He is not happy holding something hard like a stick).
Note. Danger points for running off. When he is brought round to Heel position. When he is circling me. When doing leg weaving.
To minimize this danger. Give him more to do in front position. Just backing between legs is not enough. He needs a number of exercises to keep his attention. Only when he is really paying attention then move on to Heelwork.
Take him into ring on lead. Then take off sash. Give the Paws command in the usual way and get him to stand on his hind legs and put his paws on my knees. Pat him and signal to DJ. Then lower him to the ground. Get him to do a Bend and try to get him to hold that position.
But it does not matter if he does not do the Bend. It is more important that he should be sniffing fingers. If necessary even hold his collar. Then from the Bend get him to circle sash. Bend down low to his level and use fingers to get him to circle sash/hat.
Bend down to his level and use fingers to get him to circle sash. Just stick to plain circling of sash because he does it well. At start keep fingers in contact with his nose because that is when he can run off.
Then get him to back through my legs and then circle sash again. Repeat a few times. Perhaps introduce ordinary leg weaving too. Hopefully this will have got him settled and I will have his attention.
Then introduce circling of me and sash. Repeat and then start to progress round hall with Rooskie circling me. Then into Heelwork.
Keep Bridging
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Give the Paws command in the usual way and get him to stand on his hind legs and put his paws on my knees. Pat him and lower him to the ground and then give the Watch command. If he is giving his full attention then raise arm as signal to DJ.
Then get him to do plenty. A round or a backing between legs or a High. As well as Watch keep Bridging. De-de-de.
Backing between my legs still the best start.
To keep his attention get in the Watch and Touch commands at once.
Do not wait for him to run off before giving the Touch command. Use it to get his attention.
Note. Just use it this way in the ring.
In brief. In order to get his attention at the beginning of a routine throw everything at him.
((Remember walking backwards and getting him to do Paw Work. (This worked with Trick or Treat at Fife.)))
Remember Kayce and Praise.
Remember how PJ was down on the floor tapping her hands on the floor and praising in a high pitched excited voice.
Also remember how I myself often raise both arms in the air and say in a high pitched voice Clever Rooskie.
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When settled then signal to DJ.
Then give Rooskie plenty to do. If he even turns his head get in the Touch command or the Paws command. This will in effect mean that he is starting all over again.
Then repeat backing through legs and go into a weaving sequence
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Paws, Lower him to the floor, Bend. Keep him in the Bend and then ask him to back through legs. Having to do that from the Bend position makes him concentrate more and helps to keep him focussed.
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Note. Sash can also be a hat or scarf –– anything long and soft which he can put his paws on. (He is not happy holding something hard like a stick).
Take him into ring on lead. Then take off sash. Give the Paws command in the usual way and get him to stand on his hind legs and put his paws on my knees. Pat him and signal to DJ. Then hold sash against myself and get Rooskie to transfer his paws to the sash. Make sure he has a firm grip and then turn round in a circle with Rooskie turning with me while still keeping his paws on the sash. Then lower him to the ground. Get him to do a Bend and try to get him to hold that position. Then from the Bend get him to back through my legs. Hopefully I should now have his attention and can send him round to Heel. Keep Bridging.
The Bend following the sash moves makes him focus more and concentrate and keep his attention.
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When practising sash moves bend down low and get down to his level. For Paws on Sash remember he is a small dog and the sash will have to be low enough for him to be comfortable. Note. Using the sash, it bends in the middle whereas a hat might be more rigid.
For circling sash, bend right down so that luring hand is at his nose level and he can see what he is being asked to do.
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Note. Sash can also be a hat or scarf –– anything long and soft which he can put his paws on. (He is not happy holding something hard like a stick).
Note. Danger points for running off. When he is brought round to Heel position. When he is circling me. When doing leg weaving.
To minimize this danger. Give him more to do in front position. Just backing between legs is not enough. He needs a number of exercises to keep his attention. Only when he is really paying attention then move on to Heelwork.
Take him into ring on lead. Then take off sash. Give the Paws command in the usual way and get him to stand on his hind legs and put his paws on my knees. Pat him and signal to DJ. Then hold sash against myself and get Rooskie to transfer his paws to the sash. Make sure he has a firm grip and then turn round in a circle with Rooskie turning with me while still keeping his paws on the sash. Then lower him to the ground. Get him to do a Bend and try to get him to hold that position.
But it does not matter if he does not do the Bend. It is more important that he should be sniffing fingers. Then from the Bend get him to circle sash. Bend down low to his level and use fingers to get him to circle hat.
Then stand up and ask him to Spin. Then make him Sit and ask for a Paw. Repeat.
Even let sash droop down to floor and get him to tap sash.
Then from the Sit position ask him to back through my legs.
Hopefully I should now have his attention and can send him round to Heel. Keep Bridging.
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Can be done with a tartan sash, a scarf, or a hat.
NOTE Important. See that it is long enough. So that he can grip it properly and get both paws on it. Also so that it is long enough to sag or droop in the middle so that he is not too high off the ground. And also so that I can stand up straight and do not have to bend too much.
1 Paws on sash. Rooskie on his hind legs.
2 Paws on sash. Then I turn round in a circle and Rooskie turns with me still on his hind legs and still keeping his paws on the sash.
3 Same as 2 only I walk backwards in a straight line and Rooskie follows me.
This can be followed by another sequence. I lower him to the ground and then get him to walk backwards while doing Highs. Then I get him to back through my legs from a distance.
4 I let sash droop down and Rooskie circles it. Note to start him off bend right down and let him sniff fingers and get him to follow fingers around. He does this well so do not be in too much of a hurry to move on to extended weaving and figures-of-eights.
5 I scrunch sash up in my hand and stretch out my hand and get Rooskie to circle me and jump over the sash. Holding it bunched up gives him something to focus on.
When sending him round me lift up sash and hold it against myself so that he does not confuse it with circling sash. Only hold it out when he is ready to jump. And hold it really low down.
6 Make him Sit and let sash droop to floor. Say Paw and get him to tap it with one Paw.
7. Drop sash on floor and get him to do a pivot on it.
8. Sash on floor and sendaway to it.
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Practise the Watch command with Bridging. Do this at any time. Then introduce it into the Start. Paws on knees, then lower him to the ground and say Watch and start bridging. Raise arm for DJ as soon as he starts paying attention. Then introduce a Round. Then the Turn.
Paws on Knees and Backing between my legs still the best Start.
If his attention lapses get in the Touch command at once. Do not wait for him to run off.
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Very important. SAFETY Always make sure that the working area is safe. Rooskie had this hooligan habit of rushing up to another dog and barking at it. On Southerness golf course there are many little paths between the gorse bushes from which dog walkers can suddenly appear. Get into the habit of always working him in an area where I can see for a good distance and get him on the lead in plenty of time.
Also keep Rooskie on lead unless he is really far away from the road. Once on the golf course he had been really good. I left the practice ground and walked onto the fairway near ther sheds. I thought the path was far enough away but I was wrong. Rooskie ran off. I got to the path and there was no sign of him. I was frantic. I called him and then a woman's voice said, Is this your dog? and she appeared leading Rooskie on the lead. (I had left it trailing). She told me he had actually been into the bus shelter.
So a valuable lesson for me. Put Rooskie's safety first and do not become over confident.
Also Rooskie will go into bags and rummage.
Be very careful in the house. Once I had a holdall which was not zipped up on the sofa in the front room. I went in and found that Rooskie had pulled out various bags in the holdall. To my horror he was standing in front of a Mars bar wrapper. Fortunately it was just the wrapper but it was a dreadful warning to me. If he had got hold of a complete mars bar he could have killed himself.
Also be careful when taking things out of cupboards. Take care not to drop things on the floor.
At this point remember Kayce and Praise.
Also Bridge. Dee-dee-dee. Remember Kayce and P.K. for Praise. Remember how P.J. was down on her hands and knees on the floor and how she changed her voice when praising. Raised it.
Also Kayce described Rooskie as a ham and said how important Praise is. At the end of every routine I should make a fuss of him for about two minutes.
She said the Paws position is good because I am making contact with him.
Note. The Paws command can also be given in the middle of a routine to keep his attention. Praise while in the Paws position.
(After this consider a sequence of moving backwards while he follows and does Paw Work. But this is just a consideration as, if he is settled, he can do other moves.)
At this point remember Kayce and Praise.
Also Bridge. Dee-dee-dee. Remember Kayce and P.J for Praise. Remember how P.J. was down on her hands and knees on the floor and how she changed her voice when praising. Raised it.
Also Kayce described Rooskie as a ham and said how important Praise is. At the end of every routine I should make a fuss of him for about two minutes.
She said the Paws position is good because I am making contact with him.
Note. The Paws command can also be given in the middle of a routine to keep his attention. Praise while in the Paws position.
(After this consider a sequence of moving backwards while he follows and does Paw Work. But this is just a consideration as, if he is settled, he can do other moves.)
I have a bad habit of being so relieved that we have got through the routine safely that I sometimes forget to praise him. To make sure of that not happening always end with the Paws command. The routine might end with Rooskie doing a sendaway to a mat. Leave him there for a few seconds. That is the end of the routine. Then call Paws and make a great fuss of him. Kayce told me to end every routine with two or three minutes telling him how clever he is. Start this off in the ring with Paws and then continue it outside the ring. Then FEED.
Kayce also told me that Rooskie is a Ham and likes to be made a fuss of.
She said that the Paws command is good because it means that I am making contact with him.
Rooskie got off to a bad start with his training at Dog Class. Instead of doing Obedience like Moff and Dusty he was given the Kennel Club Good Citizen. This meant that he was hardly ever off the lead. When the lead was eventually removed it was done too quickly resulting in panic induced flight. Whenh I took him into Heelwork to Music I found that I had a dog which would not work without the lead. But I was determined not to give up on him. Below are given some of the methods which I eventually found worked best.
I found that the best way to train Rooskie was in very short sessions -- of less than one minute at a time. The back garden of my house is securely fenced in. When working in the kitchen I would leave the door open and Rooskie could trot in and out when he wanted. If he started barking I would call him at once and perhaps ask for a Spin. That counted as one training session.
Also when training new moves I would practise them in the kitchen -- but no more than two or three repetitions at a time.
I would also have similar mini-sessions in the front room.
My drive is tarmacademed. A good place for training except that for a long time it was not secure. Then I eventually did what I should have done a long time ago. I got a joiner to make a gate which fitted halfway across the drive. I now had somewhere secure to train. Also if I left the gate to the back garden open Rooskie could run the length of the back garden and also half of the drive.
This was very good in two ways. I could easily nip out of the kitchen and do a single Start. Another advantage was Distraction Training as Rooskie could see down to the road. Sometimes the distractions would be too strong like someone walking past with another dog and then Rooskie would run to the gate and bark. But at other times the distraction level was easier and helpful
I also practised Starts in the foyer of the Bank and the railway station booking office. (See below)
How was the best way to use food so that Rooskie would not work only for food and therefore would not work in the ring? The jackpot system was explained to me but with Rooskie it was not 100% successful.
I went to the Kayce Cover Bridge and Target courses and I found them very helpful. (See below)
Eventually I found out what suirted Rooskie best. Eventually I managed to work Rooskie feeding from pocket -- this meant that I did not have food in my hand. I also varied this with using a feeding station -- and Rooskie learned to accept both.
Also when in a situation where Rooskie was liable to run off -- sometimes in my drive, sometimes on the golf course, I would use food more particularly at the Start and then phase it out very gradually.
Once before a session with Lynn in the Training Barn I heeled Rooskie round the part of the Barn where there were obvious food distractions. I worked him with a short lead trailing and had food in my hand. This soon got his interest and when the training session proper started I was able to work him off lead and without food in my hand.
Train feeding from pocket or from pouch. (Experiment with trainer sock pinned onto trousers). Feed from it at first and then keep on working him when it is empty. Then final feeding from a station -- e.g. if working in front drive make final feeding in kitchen.
If doing this for pre-ring practise at an Event then make sure to unpin pouch before going into ring.
I eventually found out how to use food in an area where there were distracting smells.
Once in the Training Barn I was taking him round before the training session began. There were certain areas where there were definite scents.
I walked him round these particular areas with food in my hand -- and he soon transferred his attention from the scents to me. Then I transferred the food to my other hand or to my pocket -- and he still kept his attention on me -- and worked GREAT.
And when the training session proper strarted I still had his attention.
A few days later I was in the Railway Booking Office. I tried working him with lead trailing -- and he ran off. I then worked him with food in my hand -- and soon got his attention. Then I transferred food to my other hand and he still kept focussing on me.
So at an Event, before routine work him on lead or with lead trailing and use food to get his attention.
This was how I eventually got Rooskie to work off the lead. He would usually work well with the lead trailing. I eventually got him to work with a half leadm trailing. I did a number of Training Rounds at HTM Events until I finally manged to work him without the lead. (See below).
Also Rooskie needed to be quite sure when he was Starting a routine or a working session. I eventually worked out a method. Up on Hind legs and Paws on my knees. Then I would lower him gently to the ground and send him back between my legs. Then into fast Heelwork interspersed with him backing between my legs -- to the command Turn. This helped to get him settled. (See below)
I found that some of what he learned at the Good Citizen classes could be used in Heelwork to music. For example he learned the Send the Dog to Bed exercise. This could be incorporated into a routine as a Sendaway.
This is important and something with which I had some difficulty with Rooskie. Particularly if I needed to trim the long hair beneath his tail. As I needed to do sometimes when we came back from the golf course and he had some twigs entangled in his hair.
He would not let me do this and would become quite fierce. Then I remembered what Kayce Cover said about teaching the dog the names of the body parts and that that the dog needed to know what was going to happen.
I took some titbits and sat down on the floor with Rooskie and made him Sit. I said Paw and took his Paw in my hand and said DE and treated. Then I held a titbit in front of his nose and, with my other hand, took hold of his tail and said Tail and de-de-de- DE. And treated. Finally I repeated that and lifted his hind legs and placed them on my knee -- while he faced the other way. I would then touch his hindquarters while bridging.
I did this every day for a time. Eventually I was able to take sissors and trim the hair under his tail.
Problem.
When I trained Dusty and Moff, the training class I attended did basic Obedience with the advanced class working on the pre-beginners schedule. But when I took Rooskie to the class everything had changed. The class was now doing 'pet-training' and the Kennel Club Good Citizen.
This meant that for the first year of his training Rooskie was hardly ever off the lead. He got his Bronze certificate and then moved on to another class. He was introduced to off-lead too quickly. The result immediate panic induced flight. I struggled with this and then found another class with an excellent instructor. But we went to her after the damage had been done.
Later we had private sessions with her where we went through our HTM routines and this helped a great deal.
Nevertheless I took him into Heelwork to Music. I started before the Kennel Club regulations were introduced with the result that I started off working him on the lead as the regulations for the Paws and Music said that a dog could be worked on lead in Starters. And as Rooskie's only problem was working off lead we started off quite well.
With the KC regulations we had a real problem. Rooskie could do the HTM rules but he tended to run off and sniff his way round the ring. The frustrating thing was that he would work beautifully with a lead just trailing along the floor. Then there was a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
In brief, Rooskie was what trhe HTM people called 'a runner.'
No one magic answer. But below are a number of things which all helped
To start of with Rooskie's instructor said we would aim for a good recall. I had to have special titbits which were for the Recall and nothing but the Recall. I ended up using cooked sausages which I grilled so that they would keep. For the new recall command I ended up using Touch. (The original idea was that he would run and put his paws on my knee. It did not work out like that but I still used Touch.)
Gradually things began to improve. I was allowed to do a few not-for-competition or training rounds with the lead trailing and this helped a great deal. At the same time in training I realised that Rooskie would not work anywhere and I no longer expected so much of him in training. (In the past I had also made matters much worse by trying to get him to do Heel Free on Southerness beach where there were too many distracting smells -- and even barbeque debris).
Important. Do not try to work a dog where the distractions are too strong. Do not let him off the lead where he is likely to fail. If in doubt keep a lead or cord trailing and try to keep his attention.
I had made some bad mistakes in the past. I had been told that he should be able to work anywhere. With the result that I tried all over the place. I tried on Southerness beach one hot summer. And he would run off. I tried and tried and made things worse. And then I found that there were distractions like barbeque debris -- and on the caravan site -- the bit just above the path to the beach -- there were sheep droppings etc.
Eventually I learned not to let him off the lead where the distractions were too strong.
Then -- two years later -- after I had come back from the Bridge and Target course (See below) I was down at Southerness. I was going to just walk him to the end of the caravan site so I did not take any titbits but once out I decided to go down on the beach. It was a dull day and the beach was quiet. I kept him on the lead until I got to the part beyond the caravan site. I walked along beside the reeds and decided to let him off the lead. (I kept one lead trailing).
He did not run off. He just ran about investigating and kept coming back to me. I turned and walked back and when I got to the caravan site part of the beach I still let him run free. When he was too far away I called him and he came back to me at once -- although I did not have any titbits. It saeemed as if he was quite content to work for Praise. Then people with dogs started to appear and I put Rooskie back on the lead again.
And I had learned a great deal. When off the lead Rooskie should always be like that. And if he is not then put him back on the lead at once.
Another time. He was up on grass above beach and I wanted to put the lead on prior to going home. I called Touch but he paid no attention and went on sniffing. Then I went de-de-de and he turned at once and bounded towards me.
I was still going to the first class and things were now better. The advanced class was now doing fun agility. Not proper agility but indoors fun agility.
Eventually Rooskie began to get the idea that when he saw a jump he was expected to go over it and when he saw a tunnel he was supposed to go through it. I would take him round the ring witrh a short cord trailing. But when we were practising the various pieces of apparatus separately then I would work him off lead -- with very little problems.
I then wondered if I could try working Rooskie with props in the ring. I started off with a child's play tunnel from Argos. I used the song The Tunnel of Love sung by Doris Day. It seemed to help Rooskie to focus and he ran round it and through it.
I later had the idea of using a chair in the same way. Rooskie could go round it and through it and it was easier because it was shorter. (Tunes Trick or Treat, Through the Gates of Town, The Monster in Loch Ness). In the same way Rooskie likes things to go round.
Important. Props can help a dog to focus.
I went to a Bridge and Target course and it seemed to help. I was shown how to replace the click with a distinctive X and DE -- to let him know that he was doing the right thing -- say a continuous de-de-de. Rooskie seemed to like the sound of this and would perk up whenever I started de-de-de.
At the course I had a mini one-to-one session with one of the instructors. She told me to use praise instead of food and to finish with a Jackpot.
Bridge and Target can also be used for the novice Recall. Start off with him doing Wait -- in any position he chooses. Then move away saying de-de-de. Then in excited voice Release and make a big fuss of him when he runs towards me. (PJ was actually tapping her hands on the floor). If he will not wait just put him back in the original position and say That is not waiting. Wait.)
Also good for the Recall. Call Touch and then go de-de-de.
Rooskie is the kind of dog who needs constant reassurance that he is doing the right thing. Otherwise he will get disheartened and give up and go and do something else. For him there is the motivation of knowing that he is doing the right thing.
(See also notes below but this is the most important one about two leads.)
On the golf course I clipped on one lead and left it trailing. Then I clipped on the main lead and held it normally. Then I would let him SEE me taking off the main lead but I would still leave the secondary one on for security. Note. I was not trying to fool Rooskie and make him think he was off the lead completely. The idea was to let him see me taking off the main lead and realise that the taking off of the lead did not mean that he could stop working.
(After all this was where the problem had first started at dog class when he was a young dog. See above. Rooskie associated the taking-off-of the-lead with panic-induced flight.)
Also try not to use secondary lead. It is just there for security. If use it then he will soon realise that he is still on the lead.
And this worked because when I took off the main lead he ran off a couple of times -- showing that the main thing I still have to work on is his reaction to the taking-off of the main lead. But I can still have the secondary lead for security.
Distinctive Start -- Backing through my legs.
But I worked on this. I found that the best thing was to concentrate on him backing through my legs. I would give the Paws command and get him on his hind legs and unclip the main lead. When I did this I would often lose his attention. So I kept hold of the secondary lead and used my hand to get his attention again and got him to back through my legs. Then he would come naturally into the Heel position and I would start some Heelwork bridging all the time. Dee--dee--dee.
This worked quite well and I felt that I was making progress.
The second trailing lead is useful and important but still need to practise off lead completely. But be very careful that he does not get into bad habits.
Try a short routine using foods and follow this directly with a routine NOT using food.
When Rooskie running free on practice ground on golf course -- with lead trailing -- sometimes call him and when he comes hold food in hand and do ordinary Heelwork. This can be useful. Also try it and then follow it with a short formal session -- starting with Paws command and backing through legs -- WITHOUT food. This can work really well.
The informal Heelwork with food in hand can also be done, at a pinch, with Rooskie on lead.
This can be done in two ways. One with then half lead trailing. Two with his ragger in my hand.
Consider getting him to do circles around me instead of heelwork. There are times when circles might be safer. And once he is settled he can go on to heelwork later.
And reversing through my legs even better than circles. Get him to verse through my legs and then take a few paces forward and get him to verse through my legs again.
Paws on basket. Weaving -- as long as it is backwards weaving. Round to Heel. Circles. If doing anti clockwise circles, do them from right hand side heelwork position and use command 'Anti.'
If doing anti clockwise circles, do them from right hand side heelwork position and use command 'Anti.'
Make sure that training sessions mirror what is going to be done in the ring. I had been practising starts on golf course but without the figure-of-eight props. The basket would have been too heravy to take to the golf but I got a child's seaside bucket which went into my backpack. Another advantage of using the bucket was that I had to do it off the lead as the lead would catch on the bucket.
I tried using the figure-of-eight start which I had used in the house. And it did not work. He would take time getting into it and then he would run off.
I struggled and then I discovered that the Heelwork Start (see above) worked. Startt him off doing Heelwork and then lead him up to basket/bucket and then get him to do figure-of-eights.
Also practise using collar decoration which mean to use in the ring.
Can use actual basket and lighthouse at dog class.
The start is very important because Rooskie was always more likely to run off at the beginning. The start was the danger point. If I got him started there was a good chance he would complete the routine. Some points about starts.
Make sure have his attention.
Keep watching him the whole time to see that still have his attention.
Keep giving him things to do to keep his attention. Certain exercises are better than others for keeping his attention. For example the Verse is very good that way. Also if lose his attention step back and walk backwards and get him to follow.
Vary the Recalls
The Bridge and Target and de-de-de is good but it works best if I vary it. From time to time go back to the cooked sausage and the Touch command. And remember to DE after the de-de-de and only feed random and not too much. This last is very important.
The Touch command. See above. This should be practised separately from the HTM routines. For example when he is in the garden and begins to bark I can recall him. Touch. De-de-de.
The Touch command should be used when practising routines only very occasionally and then it will be more effective when used in trhe ring in a competition.
Starting. The Paws command.
I taught Rooskie the Paws command. When I said Paws he was to come and stand on his hind legs and put his front paws on my knees. Then I would pat him, praise him and occasionally give him a treat.
This helped the Start as I would be holding him and patting him. Then I would gently lower him to the floor and keep my fingers at his nose and say Heel and get him into the Heel position. Keep fingers in contact with his nose all the time he is going round behind.
Then start him doing Heelwork.
An alternative. After lowering him to the floor get him to verse through legs and then come round to the Heel position.
Very important. Once he is doing heelwork intersperse it with plenty of things to keep his attention.
Important. Note. Backing through my legs. I keep forgetting just how important this is.
Once he is settled in Heelwork make him back through my legs and then a little more HW and then back through my legs again. The command is Turn. The Backing through my legs helps to get him settled and to realise that he is actually doing a routine. For the Start it also helps to keep holding his collar until he is backing and then try to get fingers at his nose as start Heelwork.
This makes for a very distinctive start. Which is exactly what Rooskie needs. If use it all the time then he will begin to recognise that it is the start of a working session.
Keep raising arm so that he will not be alarmed when it is done in the ring.
In the opening sequence I could do Paws, Turn, Front and he was fine. But if I then said Round then he could run off. But he seemed more reliable with Heel -- and he was used to that command for the Obedience exercise of being sent behind the handler to Heel. So I tried it and then got him into the figure-of-eight sequence with a sash.
Practise the Watch command with Bridging. Then introduce it into the Start. Paws on knees, then lower him to the ground and say Watch and start bridging. Raise arm for DJ as soon as he starts paying attention. Then introduce a Round. Then the Turn.
Important. Keep him in front and maintain eye contact until he gives his full attention
Watch moves when changing from one sequence to another.
For example if doing a sequence of Front and Follow, or To-ing and Fro-ing, or Back and Front, (see above) before changing to Heelwork watch the change over.
The main thing is to keep his attention and make sure that I do not lose contact during the change over.
Either do another Backing between legs to command Turn or send to Heel using the command Heel.
If he loses attention or runs off in the middle of a routine consider the Paws command as an alternative to Touch.
In effect this will mean that he is starting all over again
I have a bad habit of being so relieved that we have got through the routine safely that I sometimes forget to praise him. To make sure of that not happening always end with the Paws command. The routine might end with Rooskie doing a sendaway to a mat. Leave him there for a few seconds. That is the end of the routine. Then call Paws and make a great fuss of him. Kayce told me to end every routine with two or three minutes telling him how clever he is. Start this off in the ring with Paws and then continue it outside the ring. Then FEED.
Kayce also told me that Rooskie is a Ham and likes to be made a fuss of.
She said that the Paws command is good because it means that I am making contact with him.
Continue with the Paws command but the backing through my legs is the most important part. Try to keep contact with his nose as long as possible. Then a little bit of Heelwork. This is more reliable than going straight into figure-of-eights.
In the training barn Lynn found that if I fed him at the very beginning of the routine then that got his attention and I did not need to feed again until the end of the routine.
So for a KC competition work him for a short time before the routine on the lead and praise and feed. Also turn and walk backwards and give the Touch command. (This is important to remind him as might need Touch for an emergency recall when he is in the ring.) Get him enthusiastic before going into ring.
I found out how to do this in the railway booking office. Work him for a short time on lead or with lead trailing and use food and voice and really get his attention. That is equivalent to short practice just before going into ring. Remember Touch.
I tried this in the Training Barn once before Lynn was ready. I worked him with a short lead trailing and fed him from my pocket -- and it worked GREAT. He had a super session afterwards.
Get a distinctive Start. See above.
Bridge and Target is a great help but Rooskie needs something in the middle of the routine. I ended up going de-de-de and then an excited Good Dog. (I don't know if this counts as a kind of second intermediate bridge.) The at then very end the final bridge DE and he knows the routine is finished and he is going to be fed.
Important. All through routine use voice. Bridge and Target. Also Good Dog and Clev-er.
(See diary entry for January 2006).
I have a bad habit of being so relieved that we have got through the routine safely that I sometimes forget to praise him. To make sure of that not happening always end with the Paws command. The routine might end with Rooskie doing a sendaway to a mat. Leave him there for a few seconds. That is the end of the routine. Then call Paws and make a great fuss of him. Kayce told me to end every routine with two or three minutes telling him how clever he is. Start this off in the ring with Paws and then continue it outside the ring. Then FEED.
Kayce also told me that Rooskie is a Ham and likes to be made a fuss of.
She said that the Paws command is good because it means that I am making contact with him.
Practise individual moves
Practise individual moves frequently and by themselves. For example when he comes in from garden do a couple of moves.
Practise then emergency recal -- the Touch command separately from the HTM.
The Touch command. See above. This should be practised separately from the HTM routines. For example when he is in the garden and begins to bark I can recall him. Touch. De-de-de.
The Touch command should be used when practising routines only very occasionally and then it will be more effective when used in trhe ring in a competition.
When we got home from Southerness we had a good training session in the Training Barn at Glencaple.
Rooskie started well and then started running off. His instructor said to feed him very early on in the routine. Practically as soon as he had started HW. I fed from my pockets but did not have food in my hand. After a time that worked well.
For the rest of the routine Lynn made me feed him frequently -- from the pockets -- during the routine. And also to feed randomly. In other words to vary the time between feeding. This worked and he was much more attentive.
When I practised at home he maintained the good progress he had made at Glencaple. Then he started running off the first time.
Important Note. Go back to feeding him practically as soon as he has come round after backing through my legs.
Sendaway. Lynn pointed something out to me. I was practising The Northern Lights of Aberdeen. I was using a tartan sash and Rooskie was circling it. I dropped it on the floor and sent Rooskie to it. I was then going to walk around him but Lynn said that it would be better if I just stayed where I was and made that the ending. She said just how many people in HTM can do a Sendaway. I had not thought it anything special a Simone's class do it no bother for the Good Citizen. But now Lynn has told me that I can work it into different routines.
Start him off by going round me. Clockwise as if going to Heel. That way he will end up on my left hand side. Then send him anti-clockwise round the object A-round. If do it the other way and try to send him clockwise round object and anti-clockwise round me he will get confused as he will be starting round me from the left. And that is how he starts the verse.
Sideways is something which Rooskie does well --- once he gets started. Start with plain backwards. Then get him into sideways position. He does it moving away from me.
In originally taught this in a corner and making him reverse something on the floor in front of me. I would hold in front of him and make him go Back, Back. And as he was in a corner he just had to go round in a circle.
Later I got him to reverse around me.
But it took time to get it right. He had to be in the exact position and he could become worried. Eventually I always did a Verse from a sit. But still problems.
Then I thought about my hand signal. I introduced a sweeping backwards move of my hand. And always the left hand as his instructor pointed out that I used my other hand for the Spin.
Important. Stand beside him and start off by getting him to Verse behind me and then Turn and face him and keep giving hand signal and verbal command or he will suddenly stop versing.
I also got him to Verse around an object. He would reverse right round a chair.
A good start can be this. After have got him into heelwork then get him to do backwards weave through legs. Then when he is on the left give the signal with LEFT hand and get him to VERSE. This is one of the best ways to get him to Verse.
This is a very good move and can look really effective.
But to be really sure of it and to give Rooskie confidence start him off versing in the usual way -- start after a piece of heelwork -- and then turn and do it with him. This reassures him and gives him confidence and helps to make sure that nothing goes wrong.
This developed out of the Verse. It was originally an accident. If Rooskie was not in the right position to Verse around me he would do a kind of a backspin. It actually looked quite good so I made a point of having Rooskie some distance in front of me. I would then give the command Verse and he would do a series of backspins.
Again watch the hand signal.
But for Versing around me I made sure he was beside me.
I started to practise them both so that he would not be confused or worried.
Again this developed quite naturally. Rooskie would do an extended leg weave through the Tunnel or through a chair.
I would just stand in front of the Tunnel and point between my legs and say Through and Rooskie would trot through the tunnel. Then when he got to the end I would look behind me and wave my hand to the side I wanted him to come up.
Also practise this with me sitting on chair. I can lean backwards and make sure that Rooskie's nose comes in contact with my fingers when he comes through and round the chair.
I wanted to be able to bring Rooskie in front of me and get him to go backwards through my legs and then come to the side of me.
I eventually got him to do this. Then I managed to turn this into a weave. I would send him back through my legs and to my left side. Then I would bring him forward and back again but this time to my right side. And repeated this gave a weave sequence. And -- with my bad balance -- it was easier for me than the more conventional backwards weaving. I eventually managed to do this while walking forwards.
Then I extended this using cones. And then I was able to get him to do it through a chair.
Keeping his Confidence. When he appeared to be going off it I would just do an ordinary weave and when he was really into it I would then switch to the backwards weave.
Also a different extension. I placed an object to my left. Then I got him to weave through my legs and also around the object on the left. Important. Have to get him to go round it anti clockwise. Can vary this by doing both ordinary and backwards leg weaves.
Starting the backwards weave
The only problem here was getting started. Some confusion. Eventually I did a lot of practice with him in front and giving the command Turn and saying X the minute he started moving backwards. Intensive practice on the difficult part -- here the turning round to get into the position for moving backwards.
This is not so spectactular but still a useful move. Rooskie makes circles around me while I move in the opposite direction. Remember to extend my arms out to side and try to make it look more fluent.
Also Rooskie can do a circle around an object while I move around object too in opposite direction.
I walk backwards and Rooskie taps maracas, wand etc a few times. Can be varied by sending him around me. Can finish by Rooskie walking backwards
Get Rooskie to go backwards and the Stay. Then get him to raise a paw at a distance. It looks good. Then get him to Spins, Highs and Bows.
Alternative. Get him to do this from behind a barrier e.g. a rope placed across the floor.
Extended Weave
A weave through my legs extended to an object at the side. Can introduce a variation by getting him to reverse through my legs in addition to ordinary leg weave.
Try to introduce variations like backing through my legs and verses.
Figures of Eight
Rooskie circles me and then circles round an object in the opposite direction so getting a figure of eight.
Start him off by going round me. Clockwise as if going to Heel. That way he will end up on my left hand side. Then send him anti-clockwise round the object A-round. If do it the other way and try to send him clockwise round object and anti-clockwise round me he will get confused as he will be starting round me from the left. And that is how he starts the verse.
Also start to introduce the command anti for anti-clockwise circles.
Also introduce a variation of getting him to go round object and then versing round me.
After figures of eight get him to back through my legs and then verse around me. Then step back and get him to do back spins.
Rooskie goes round me to the Heel position to the command Heel or Anti or just a hand signal. Then he completes the figure-of-eight by doing a free circle in front of me to a hand signal. This can look really good.
Start him off by standing with him in front of me near the end of the object. Then wave hand round object and give command Verse.
Sideways
Sideways is something which Rooskie does well --- once he gets started. Start with plain backwards. Then get him into sideways position. He does it moving away from me.
Moving round him in a circle and working up to a Recall.
Make him Sit and move round him in a circle. When coming to the end of the circle move further away. This can work up to a Recall. He anticipates an ordinary Recall but he is steadier when left if I move round in a circle. And I can do it so that I can get a reasonable Recall.
Can be introduced into a routine. Combine with Paw work at the begiining of the exercise.
Paws on Object
Rooskie standing with paws on an object. (A bucket for a seaside routine or a circus routine.) Try to work up to incorporating this into a stay.
Start with a small step stool. Get him to put his paws on it and move around it sideways while still keeping his Paws on it. He moves round following me to the command Turn. Then get him to go the other way away from me to the command Slip.
Then get him to do figures-of-eights and extended weaves round me and round the step.
Then get him to jump up onto the stool and sit there. He does this to the command Up. Then move away and get him to do Paw Work.
Then extend this to stuffed rucksacks etc. They can be disguised as milestones etc.
For Scottish routines -- or for Teddy Bears' Picnic -- can use a tartan sash. Wear it round neck like a scarf. Or for Small World etc. Can be butterfly scarf.
Use it instead of a cane. Get him to do figures-of-eight round me and round the sash. Get him to do extended weaves between my legs and round the sash. Remember to include backing through my legs.
Then walk trailing sash and get him to walk alongside circling sash continuously.
Then walk backwards with him following. Double sash up and get him to put his paws on it.
Double up sash and hold it between hands. Get him to go up on his hind legs and put his paws on it. Then go round in a complete circle while Rooskie keeps his paws on the sash.
Walk backwards while Rooskie keeps his paws on the sash.
Walk forwards while Rooskie keeps his paws on the sash. This means that Rooskie is walking backwards.
Get him to jump over it. Get him to go round me and then jump, over sash. Hold sash scrunched up so that it gives him something to focus on. Then he will jump over it while circling me.i
Important. At some point drop sash on floor. Finish with him doing Sendaway to it and going Down.
Moves with a Sash or Scarf. (Also see above)
I got him to circle a tartan sash instead of a pole. Also to do figures-of-eights around me and around the sash and extended weaves. Also me walking backwards and Rooskie walking forwards. If I double up the sash and hold it between my hands he will go up on his hind legs and put his paws on it. I even got him to jump over it. I held it in my left hand and then stuck out my right arm and draped the sash over it -- and Rooskie jumped over it.
And of course the Sendaway.
Important Note for Sash Routines
1 Circling. Figure-of-eights. Extended Weaves.
Take off sash. Walk backwards with Rooskie following me. Then stop and get him to go round the sash. Start him off clockwise. Easiest way to get started.Then into a sequence of him circling the sash.
Then get him to go Round me AND round the sash. Then get him into figures-of-eight round me and round the sash. Then extended weave round me and round the sash. Remember to vary it with backing through my legs and with verses and spins.
2 Paw Work
Get him to follow me in front position, double up sash (or even quarter it).
Then walk backwards and get him to follow. Hold out sash to him and say Paw and get him to tap sash. Note. Sash should be held just above the floor – not touching it as in circling.
3 Hind legs on Sash
A) The Pose
Then take a few steps backwards and hold sash between my hands and get him to stand on his hind legs and put his front paws on it. Do it as a Pose.
B) Walking with his Paws on the sash. Straight and in a Circle.
Note Make sure he has a good grip before starting to walk.
Then walk backwards while Rooskie still has his paws on the Sash. Keep praising and bridging. If he looks like letting go reinforce with the Paws command.
Note this must be built up gradually.
But once he has the idea it is very easy to get him to move round in a circle with his paws on the sash.
4 Jumping over Sash
Then get him to circle me while jumping over the sash. (Squash sash up and hold it in my hand and get him to jump over my arm. The sash gives him something to focus on.)
5 Floor Pivot
Then drop sash on floor. Give Paws command and get him to put his paws on it and, keeping his paws on it, to move right round it.
Note. Do this to the Paws command.
Training. This is an extension of the Paws on Box and moving round Box.
6. Sendaway
Then drop sash on floor. Walk forwards.Then turn and get him to do a Sendaway to sash on floor and go down.
Double up sash and hold it between hands. Get him to go up on his hind legs and put his paws on it. Then go round in a complete circle while Rooskie keeps his paws on the sash.
Walk backwards while Rooskie keeps his paws on the sash.
Walk forwards while Rooskie keeps his paws on the sash. This means that Rooskie is walking backwards.
Hold sash squashed up in hand and get Rooskie to do circles round me and jump over the sash.
And of course drop sash on floor and get Rooskie to do a Sendaway to it.
Use food to get him started.
Put him on the half lead (the one which is the longest to still be able to do leg weaving with). Feed before doing routine. Hold food in hand and lure him round sash to get him started.
Sendaway.
Lynn pointed something out to me. I was practising The Northern Lights of Aberdeen. I was using a tartan sash and Rooskie was circling it. I dropped it on the floor and sent Rooskie to it. I was then going to walk around him but Lynn said that it would be better if I just stayed where I was and made that the ending. She said just how many people in HTM can do a Sendaway. I had not thought it anything special a Simone's class do it no bother for the Good Citizen. But now Lynn has told me that I can work it into different routines.
Finally I walked trailing the sash and I got Rooskie to walk beside me doing a sequence of continous circles round the sash.
Other Sash or Scarf Moves.
I got Rooskie to jump over the tartan sash. See above.
Jumping over my foot. I also got him to jump over my foot. I bent one knee (a lunge) and stretched the other leg out in front of me with the toe pointing up in the air. I got Rooskie to circle me and jump over it but I felt very insecure.
Roll-overs. I also got Rooskie to do roll-overs but he will need a lot more practise. When practising keep fingers right at his nose the whole time.
First Steps
1 Get him to do a Bow and a Stay. Or a Sit and a Stay.
2 Then walk away from him to increase the distance. In ring do not go back too far as he is more accurate if he does not have to back too far.
3 Then open legs really wide. Stand a little to the left as he is more likely to back towards the left. Exaggerate position of legs to give him an extra signal. Wide and bend knees.
4 Then give signal together with command Turn.
(Aim at getting him to Turn when give command and do NOT allow him to move forwards and then Turn).
He knows the command Turn well from already backing through my legs.
5 Watch he does not confuse various signals.
TURN -- a Low hand signal SPIN -- a High hand signal.
SPIN -- A CIRCULAR movement with fingers.
6 Use a target stick to get him to turn the moment he gets the command. Also target stick helps to keep him accurate. (A squashed up baseball cap can also serve as a target stick. Also squashed tartan sash).
7 He should then Turn and Back towards me and through my legs. Praise and Treat.
8 Do not worry him if he misses my legs but try to ensure that it does not happen. If he does miss then just make him do a circle then try again.
9 If he misses my legs it is most likely to be on the left hand side. If he does this in the ring then just get him to verse around me. But try to stop him doing it in practise. Stand towards the left.
10 This can look very effective if combined with a Bow and a Stay.
11 Also useful. Put him in the Down Stay and walk round him and then get him to turn and back between legs.
Rooskie I think I am getting somewhere at last. I have worked out how to train him. With him and distraction it is mainly scent distraction. Which means that I do not know if there are distractions in the training area. I have now started this. I clip on a fairly heavy lead. Then I clip on a lighter lead and leave it trailing. I then go to the training area and let Rooskie see me taking off the heavy lead. That is important as, when the trouble started, Rooskie would run off the minute the lead was taken off. But this